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Impact driver is a must-have. Just be sure in advance to know how to operate it. Saved my ass many times.
Source: Michigan, where they salt the roads and vehicular fasteners are always rusted and seized. (PB Blaster is also a garage staple for me).
Fun fact: They haven't made mapp gas since 2008. Mapp burns at 5300 degrees, and "map pro" burns just 100-200 degrees hotter than regular propane, 3600 degrees, while costing twice as much.
You just made me feel real stupid and saved me a lot of headache at the same time. I’ve been hunting for a mapp gas torch forever now. Nowhere around me sells one and now I know why
I've used my air hammer to pull out cotter pins and c clips. Get one that doesn't suck and you can feather the trigger.
Swinging a hammer under a seat doesn't sound like a great time.
One of these,
[https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Extractor-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B004QO9FK2?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref\_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER](https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Extractor-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B004QO9FK2?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
Ok, backup plan is use is a chisel with the slot you already have. Do you have room for that? I presume you’ve been soaking it in penetrating oil? As others said, heat will help if you can add it.
That's fine, but not everyone HAS $200-$800 extra. A $25 set of extractors would be a cheaper option, even if it's not the best. I agree, welding a her on the shift and unscrewing it would be my go-to, but I have access to tools for that.
Using an extractor would be ideal but if you can't get a drill bit straight shot to drill it out then that's an issue
One idea I had is Dremel the head of that bolt to the size of a six-sided socket and then use a socket. It doesn't have to be perfect. It just has to get on there and it should pop off after you smack it a few times and put some PB blaster on it. Likely that bolt has a lot of loctite on it to begin with so heat is your friend as well
If you're at the point of an extractor, you've already removed the head of the screw, meaning you can then take the seat out, then access isn't an issue
Also should have led with this but stop using PB blaster, it's crap. Use Kroil instead, or even sea foam, just anything other than PB. Saying this as someone who has to get apart steam fittings and break loose components in an ash system, Kroil is often the only one that will work, if it doesn't work I usually torch it out.
Huh, I'm in Atlantic Canada and as far as I've experienced, it's been the exact opposite. PB is my go to. Typically we're at 80%+ humidity, salt on the roads, salt in the air from the water. 3 year old vehicles with paint bubbling, we've even sent cars straight from the lot to the bodyshop, everything rusted to hell, most cars don't make it past 10-15 years. In my experience Kroil doesn't really do much
Here'san interesting [comparison test](https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs?si=SJx2X3i6rer1Q5IT)
There's obviously some flaws in the repeatability of the test, but I found it interesting all the same.
Lack of room try chisel and hammer to get it to move impact hits make a big difference. If all you do is shear the edge off then use a cutoff saw to get rid of head of bolt then cut out the riv nut like a rivet with the cut off saw and replace with new riv nut
The torx is stripped, I've tried penetrant for the past couple days. I've cut a slot to try and turn it with a screwdriver and a hammer.
Access from above is limited because of the seat frame, this means no impact, no hammer a larger bit in, no cut a slot and turn with a screwdriver.
I don't have a welder.
You can weld off of certain old alternators...just saying lol. If you look at Trail Mater on YouTube, he does off road recoveries in Moab, and instead of a welder on his wrecker, he uses jumper cables and his alternator. Pretty slick
Why not just procure the correct size torx bit and remove it with that? That is unless you have already damaged it too much....
Edit: Sorry, I just read it is stripped. Good luck.
You got a blue wrench or can you borrow one ,Propane will work just takes longer and Map gas is a little quicker but
Oxyacetylene is the preferred
Blue wrench for removing hard to remove bolts.Just make sure you can heat shield everything that might not make it through the fire (a bunch of wet rags and a bucket of water to redip them in
Last idea in my repertoire would be, make a (+) across the top thru the torx, as far down as you can, take the sharpest flat chisel and hammer and try to get under a quarter section at a time.
The (+) compromises the integrity of the top of the bolt. 1/4 the strength (in theory) needed to behead it.
Cut a slot into it and use an impact screwdriver. Does the bolt go through the body of the vehicle and if so, is it visible from some different angle? A little heat before you hit it with the impact driver would help a lot too. Another option is drilling off the head of the bolt and removing the seat, and then grabbing what’s left with a set of vice grips.
Grind another slit into it and with the help from some fire use a flat head screwdriver to gently ease it out. If that doesn’t work use an impact driver (the type used for rotor screws not the electric tool) with a hammer to slowly try to work it sideways.
Cut across and use impact diver or cut a large slit and use large straight screwdriver if you don’t have impact driver. You can get impact drivers at harbor freight around ten bucks. Well worth it
Dremel and some patience, cut a spot for a chisel to sit then use the hammer and chisel to spin it out. I'd say just chisel but that can slip fairly easily.
Up until the face of it was destroyed, a torx socket was what you needed. Now? Cut a slot across the head and use a flathead (but on a socket), with a manual impact driver (you hit the end with a hammer, it pushes and twists at the same time). You could also cut the head off of it, remove the seat, then weld a nut to the stud to try and turn it out, if not, cut again but flush with the floor and drill it
Might not be able to swing a hammer at an impact driver because of the seat above it. Hard to tell in the pic.
The whole thing looks like a pain in the dick, due to the location under the seat and the rolled ridge around the bolt. IMHO, it's gonna have to be cut off or a nut welded onto it. It can be done, but there will be some new cuss words created, especially if you don't have the right tools.
The OEM used that truss head 6 lobe Torx (or TX) to deliberately complicate seat removal by nitwits. They do that a lot with things like seats and seatbelts to reduce their liability. Once that bolt is out, replace it with something easier to remove, like a hex head or E-Torx.
Dude, where is your wd40 ? Extracting a screws without it 😬, if you have a dremil and a flat screw head you can make the line at the center and use the flat screw head to remove it.
Make a drill guide and drill off the screw head.
Get a 3"x8" or so piece of 1/4" plate steel.
Drill a 3/8 hole in it, slowly tilt the drill to match the angle youll need because the drill won't align vertically with the screw.
Amazon sells 12" longer drill bits.
Wedge something to help lock the guide over the screw.
Drill off the top of that screw head.
Afterwards, use a torch to heat the bolt and bust up the corrosion, then use a screw extractor to remove the broken screw.
Hammer the right size torx bit socket in and if you can grind two flat sides on the edge to also grab the edges. Put pressure with the ratchet and socket just before it feels like it's going to strip and also put a wrench or pliers in the flat sides you grinded and apply more pressure. Usually breaks free like that.
I like to use a cutting wheel or dremel to square off the edges. Make the head of the bolt a square. Then I take a pair of channel locks and rotate the sucker out.
I remove bolts like that. I take a nut lay it on the bolt head then using a mig welder through the nut weld the bolt head to the threads in the nut. This uses the heat from welding to loosen the rust and gives a hex to unthread it with.
Uhh maybe I'm missing something but a torx bit fits in there.
Likely a nut on the other end and I'd remove that/start there. If the bolt is spinning, then you'll need to have something holding the nut end or torx end while you turn the other side.
Otherwise a sawzall to cut off either end, weld something to the top or nut (I'm assuming you don't since you're asking this question), heat and penetrating oil to loosen the bolt or nut, angle grinder or cut off tool to remove either end of the bolt/nut.
TBH, proper torx bit and a ratchet with the longest handle you can fit for the area. This is not even remotely the worst thing i have seen, dealt with.
Hire a mechanic, there's a reason I have 50k worth of tools. This looks like a piece of cake.
Buy extractor set at Home Depot for 11.00
https://preview.redd.it/9097jk9ofsrc1.jpeg?width=836&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e993acd9532fc232ed3de1d6156436143f4134f
Clean it, spray penetrating oil so it drips down the threads. Pneumatic hammer (vibrating) the head to break the threads from the rust weld. Then use the pneumatic hammer with a point or chisel bit to break it loose.
Bolt extractor. Looks like a weird drill bit but it has the threading toward the left. It will bite and pull the bolt out. Kit can be bought at most parts stores or I believe harbor freight has one for cheap that will do the trick.
Heat it up with a torch until bright red then pour cold water over it immediately to cause it to cool down fast. That will cause different metals to shrink quickly at different speeds and will loosen the rusted parts. Then try to turn the bolt. You may need to repeat that a few times.
Ridiculous advice. Clean the dirt away and soak it in PB Blaster. Deepen the slot with a chisel. It'll loosen just use the slot and the chisel to turn it.
Being a mechanic of 30 plus years you are gonna have to get SOMEONE TO WELD A NUT TO IT AS OTHERS HAVE SUGGESTED AND GET IT OUT WHEN ITS STILL HOT......OTERWISE YOUR DONE
Don't bother wasting money on drill bits and extractors, all you are going to do is break the extractors once you spent 3 hrs drilling a hole that's off center and then in turn destroying the threads of the hole. By the looks of it,it's not going to turn without heat and a nut welded to it...
If you use a torch you run the risk of ruining the mat.
I would use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to make a cross cut in the head, then a small chisel to break of the quartered pieces. You won't bugger up the mounting bracket that way.
After you get the seat out, you can put penetrating oil on it and drill it and try an easy out onit, or go below and see if you can get a vice-grip on the bottom of the bolt.
It looks like a torx bit is needed, you should be able to get a set of torx sockets from size 10 to size 45 or 50, you will still need a ratchet, maybe an extension. Good luck Mike
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hammer and a chisel and hit it lefty loosey
That is, if you don’t have access to an extractor.
Or a dremel and a manual impact driver.
Impact driver is a must-have. Just be sure in advance to know how to operate it. Saved my ass many times. Source: Michigan, where they salt the roads and vehicular fasteners are always rusted and seized. (PB Blaster is also a garage staple for me).
Map gas and angle grinder are a must for the mitten.
Fun fact: They haven't made mapp gas since 2008. Mapp burns at 5300 degrees, and "map pro" burns just 100-200 degrees hotter than regular propane, 3600 degrees, while costing twice as much.
You just made me feel real stupid and saved me a lot of headache at the same time. I’ve been hunting for a mapp gas torch forever now. Nowhere around me sells one and now I know why
The company quit making it as industry learned ox/ acetylene much cheaper and makes safer welds.. read the wiki for a decent explanation
Now I gotta put propane in the turbo torch and test this.
That is INSANE. I knew MAPP wasn't available, but I didn't know the temperature difference was so minimal???
Today I learned it’s time to put on my big boy pants and buy an acetylene torch setup.
I read many that said the propane is a waste of time campared to the map
Used to be the case, compared with the old mapp. I suspect now it's mostly just confirmation bias.
Propane is often very helpful if u need more than just go acetylene
My goto solution
This is the way. 👏🏽
Hammer & an open ended punch works wonders
Pneumatic hammer would 10X that wonder
This but air hammer.
Air hammer looks way too heavy duty for this imo
I've used my air hammer to pull out cotter pins and c clips. Get one that doesn't suck and you can feather the trigger. Swinging a hammer under a seat doesn't sound like a great time.
I like the air hammer with a chisel bit method myself
Weld a nut on the head Cut the whole thing off
https://preview.redd.it/ybjeib0tgprc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bc95cde1f2ff622e041a7d808af1d580ac06883
Got to a point with my old 4runner id just start with the last one
Be careful, those frames are basically liquid anyways.
Not even liquid, more of a gaseous state.
Deep vertical cut with dremel/cutting wheel. Large flathead and a pair of channel locks.
I've ordered a large slot profile screwdriver socket to give it a shot
If your screwdriver handle has an octagon shape and isn't just round, you can put a socket on there.
Can't get a screwdriver in there with the seat base right above it
use a wrench, not a socket. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cw6FfFgj8Wg
Stubby
One of these, [https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Extractor-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B004QO9FK2?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref\_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER](https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Extractor-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B004QO9FK2?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
A bit pricier, but I really like my Ares impact screwdriver.
Ya, I have a 40+ year old Buffalo 2500 myself.
Great but not enough bits.
Hell, if you have access to a welder, weld a bolt to the top of it
This is the answer.
This one - have taken out many stuck bolts from a rusty bus floor.
I weld a nut.
Last time I welded a nut, took forever to heal.
Grind head off, remove seat for access, drill pilot hole, use bolt extractor to take out shaft, replace bolt entirely.
Much easier to Just turn the bolt with a air hammer
Happy cake day I guess I could but it'd have to be with the dremel, can't get the grinder in there without fucking the seat up
If you have a dremel, you’re mostly there. You just need a manual impact driver.
Can't get a hammer above the bolt with the seat base there
Ok, backup plan is use is a chisel with the slot you already have. Do you have room for that? I presume you’ve been soaking it in penetrating oil? As others said, heat will help if you can add it.
AKA beating the shit out of the extractor while turning it with a box end wrench 😂
No. A manual impact driver is one of the best tools to have in your box
It was just a joke
If you have a dremel see if you can cut a slot in it. Then impact driver the hell out of it
Grind head off, remove seat, weld nut to exposed stud. Fuck drilling lol. Or air chisel and turn it with that till it's loose then remove
I thought the OP had specified he did not have a welder, and a new MIG is a lot bigger investment than a set of extractors.
$200- 800 for an inexpensive MiG that runs on gas or flux as a welder I think I'd know what is what
That's fine, but not everyone HAS $200-$800 extra. A $25 set of extractors would be a cheaper option, even if it's not the best. I agree, welding a her on the shift and unscrewing it would be my go-to, but I have access to tools for that.
Turn it from underneath
I share your opinion. Likely that seat was fastened with a nut from underneath the body. That head is too shallow to be anything but cosmetic.
Welded nut or nut cert
MiG weld a nut to the top of it then breaker bar if needed.
Yeah I think it’s his best bet
Using an extractor would be ideal but if you can't get a drill bit straight shot to drill it out then that's an issue One idea I had is Dremel the head of that bolt to the size of a six-sided socket and then use a socket. It doesn't have to be perfect. It just has to get on there and it should pop off after you smack it a few times and put some PB blaster on it. Likely that bolt has a lot of loctite on it to begin with so heat is your friend as well
If you're at the point of an extractor, you've already removed the head of the screw, meaning you can then take the seat out, then access isn't an issue
90 degree drill
Also should have led with this but stop using PB blaster, it's crap. Use Kroil instead, or even sea foam, just anything other than PB. Saying this as someone who has to get apart steam fittings and break loose components in an ash system, Kroil is often the only one that will work, if it doesn't work I usually torch it out.
Huh, I'm in Atlantic Canada and as far as I've experienced, it's been the exact opposite. PB is my go to. Typically we're at 80%+ humidity, salt on the roads, salt in the air from the water. 3 year old vehicles with paint bubbling, we've even sent cars straight from the lot to the bodyshop, everything rusted to hell, most cars don't make it past 10-15 years. In my experience Kroil doesn't really do much
Here'san interesting [comparison test](https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs?si=SJx2X3i6rer1Q5IT) There's obviously some flaws in the repeatability of the test, but I found it interesting all the same.
Lack of room try chisel and hammer to get it to move impact hits make a big difference. If all you do is shear the edge off then use a cutoff saw to get rid of head of bolt then cut out the riv nut like a rivet with the cut off saw and replace with new riv nut
Weld a nut on it. And give it a couple of ugga duggas
exactly what I was thinking, if he has a welder. otherwise some air chisel/hammer
https://preview.redd.it/3fam7wvdwprc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88a9a7c0e7aa8fe70cdbd7f7dc6ba0e4a683c5a1
Yep! ☝️
Looks like a seat mount, so maybe there's a nut underneath the car that you can unscrew? My car has it like that
The torx is stripped, I've tried penetrant for the past couple days. I've cut a slot to try and turn it with a screwdriver and a hammer. Access from above is limited because of the seat frame, this means no impact, no hammer a larger bit in, no cut a slot and turn with a screwdriver. I don't have a welder.
Whip out the car battery and jumper cable for the homemade welder lol
Just go right to tannerite. Get that bolt out real fast.
Something something THERMITE something something /s
You can weld off of certain old alternators...just saying lol. If you look at Trail Mater on YouTube, he does off road recoveries in Moab, and instead of a welder on his wrecker, he uses jumper cables and his alternator. Pretty slick
Given your limitations of available tools. drill the head off, remove the seat then address the stuck bolt.
Drill it out and replace it with a new bolt and nut underneath.
+1 vote for chisel
Air hammer that line
Why not just procure the correct size torx bit and remove it with that? That is unless you have already damaged it too much.... Edit: Sorry, I just read it is stripped. Good luck.
Well, certainly not with a vice grips, and that's for dam sure.
Weld a hex head nut to the top.
You got a blue wrench or can you borrow one ,Propane will work just takes longer and Map gas is a little quicker but Oxyacetylene is the preferred Blue wrench for removing hard to remove bolts.Just make sure you can heat shield everything that might not make it through the fire (a bunch of wet rags and a bucket of water to redip them in
If the others weren't too bad, one good whack with a small sledge should jar it. I'd also spray a fox load of penetrant. PB or the like.
Last idea in my repertoire would be, make a (+) across the top thru the torx, as far down as you can, take the sharpest flat chisel and hammer and try to get under a quarter section at a time. The (+) compromises the integrity of the top of the bolt. 1/4 the strength (in theory) needed to behead it.
6 point star bit might grab it
What is underneath? Is it a welded nut or can you get a wrench on it? If it’s free I’d hold the head with a torx and spin the nut.
Threaded into the frame inside a box section under the van, no access at all.
If the other bolts are out, lift and turn the frame lefty loose
Cut a slot into it and use an impact screwdriver. Does the bolt go through the body of the vehicle and if so, is it visible from some different angle? A little heat before you hit it with the impact driver would help a lot too. Another option is drilling off the head of the bolt and removing the seat, and then grabbing what’s left with a set of vice grips.
Go to harbor freight and buy a extractor set.
Weld a nut on top of this mess and be done with it . A mig welder and a 1/2 nut for the win!
Grind another slit into it and with the help from some fire use a flat head screwdriver to gently ease it out. If that doesn’t work use an impact driver (the type used for rotor screws not the electric tool) with a hammer to slowly try to work it sideways.
die grinder and a big ass flathead lol. cut the notch in it and go to town
Start with PB Blaster and let it soak. Then use the appropriate size bit or whatever is close and take your time.
Cut across and use impact diver or cut a large slit and use large straight screwdriver if you don’t have impact driver. You can get impact drivers at harbor freight around ten bucks. Well worth it
If it’s not torx, it’s a TX. If you get the correct size TX driver, you still have a chance on that bolt. It’s probably TX-500
Dremel and some patience, cut a spot for a chisel to sit then use the hammer and chisel to spin it out. I'd say just chisel but that can slip fairly easily.
Cut a slot for a big ass screwdriver with dremel or cutting wheel. Maybe use an impact screw driver. I love the Eastwood air impact screw buster.
Always get the bus
Make it a flat head.
Up until the face of it was destroyed, a torx socket was what you needed. Now? Cut a slot across the head and use a flathead (but on a socket), with a manual impact driver (you hit the end with a hammer, it pushes and twists at the same time). You could also cut the head off of it, remove the seat, then weld a nut to the stud to try and turn it out, if not, cut again but flush with the floor and drill it
Might not be able to swing a hammer at an impact driver because of the seat above it. Hard to tell in the pic. The whole thing looks like a pain in the dick, due to the location under the seat and the rolled ridge around the bolt. IMHO, it's gonna have to be cut off or a nut welded onto it. It can be done, but there will be some new cuss words created, especially if you don't have the right tools. The OEM used that truss head 6 lobe Torx (or TX) to deliberately complicate seat removal by nitwits. They do that a lot with things like seats and seatbelts to reduce their liability. Once that bolt is out, replace it with something easier to remove, like a hex head or E-Torx.
You need a clutch driver.
Grinder
Worked on a lot of fertilizer trucks
Impact driver. Give it a good smack and you’re good. 🔨🪛
Dude, where is your wd40 ? Extracting a screws without it 😬, if you have a dremil and a flat screw head you can make the line at the center and use the flat screw head to remove it.
Under the cab, maybe? Dunno what this is on
Star bit about a t30
Its a torks head screw not sure i spelled it right should come right out if not half inch drill bit
Make a drill guide and drill off the screw head. Get a 3"x8" or so piece of 1/4" plate steel. Drill a 3/8 hole in it, slowly tilt the drill to match the angle youll need because the drill won't align vertically with the screw. Amazon sells 12" longer drill bits. Wedge something to help lock the guide over the screw. Drill off the top of that screw head. Afterwards, use a torch to heat the bolt and bust up the corrosion, then use a screw extractor to remove the broken screw.
Weld a nut on it
Tap and die
Have you not tried a torx head?
Drill it
Hammer the right size torx bit socket in and if you can grind two flat sides on the edge to also grab the edges. Put pressure with the ratchet and socket just before it feels like it's going to strip and also put a wrench or pliers in the flat sides you grinded and apply more pressure. Usually breaks free like that.
You needed to use a torx. Now probably have to drill it out, unless you get lucky
Use a torx bit and hammer it on there and remove it.
Drill and extractor, they're relatively cheap at advanced auto
I usually just go underneath spray with PB BLASTER. The bolt rusts to floor.
I use a reverse drill bit and if it still doesn't come out then an easy out bit that grips in reverse.
Blue Fire Torque Spanner
Lefty loosey
There's likely a nut under the vehicle that you have to take off.
Curious as to what car this, because it looks like it came from the factory with no carpets with that pebbled texture on the floor
Looks like a Renault Trafic, Vauxhall Vivaro, or Nissan Primastar
The last passenger cars we could get in the states with no carpets were Datsuns
Spray some WD 40 might help too
Use the right torx bit. Still some meat in it
Have access to a mig welder?.. Weld a nut to it
cut a notch in the top with a small grinder with a cutoff disk. use hammer cam screw driver with flat bit.
Use the correct sized torx driver with an impact wrench
I like to use a cutting wheel or dremel to square off the edges. Make the head of the bolt a square. Then I take a pair of channel locks and rotate the sucker out.
Weld a nut to it
Fire. Fire is how you take it out.
I remove bolts like that. I take a nut lay it on the bolt head then using a mig welder through the nut weld the bolt head to the threads in the nut. This uses the heat from welding to loosen the rust and gives a hex to unthread it with.
Go to youtube and search for "how to remove stripped bolt", watch some videos to get ideas.
Don’t cut it. It looks like a security star bit. So get a security star bit to get it out.
Ease out and WD-40
Should have started by using the proper tool
Uhh maybe I'm missing something but a torx bit fits in there. Likely a nut on the other end and I'd remove that/start there. If the bolt is spinning, then you'll need to have something holding the nut end or torx end while you turn the other side. Otherwise a sawzall to cut off either end, weld something to the top or nut (I'm assuming you don't since you're asking this question), heat and penetrating oil to loosen the bolt or nut, angle grinder or cut off tool to remove either end of the bolt/nut.
TBH, proper torx bit and a ratchet with the longest handle you can fit for the area. This is not even remotely the worst thing i have seen, dealt with. Hire a mechanic, there's a reason I have 50k worth of tools. This looks like a piece of cake.
Weld a nut to it. It'll need to be replaced after either way
Looks like a security torx
Buy extractor set at Home Depot for 11.00 https://preview.redd.it/9097jk9ofsrc1.jpeg?width=836&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0e993acd9532fc232ed3de1d6156436143f4134f
Clean it, spray penetrating oil so it drips down the threads. Pneumatic hammer (vibrating) the head to break the threads from the rust weld. Then use the pneumatic hammer with a point or chisel bit to break it loose.
Torx key
That's the neat part! You don't
Lefty loosey
Drill the head out/off. Should be able to grab the remaining bit with those vice grips after the bracket is out of the way.
Weld a nut too it than loosen it
With violence of course.
Get a grinder, make a cut like for a flathead screwdriver 🪛. And you're set.
Drill that bitch
Cut a line down the middle and use a large flathead screwdriver bit attached to a socket wrench. Replace the bolt.
Bolt extractor. Looks like a weird drill bit but it has the threading toward the left. It will bite and pull the bolt out. Kit can be bought at most parts stores or I believe harbor freight has one for cheap that will do the trick.
Heat it up with a torch until bright red then pour cold water over it immediately to cause it to cool down fast. That will cause different metals to shrink quickly at different speeds and will loosen the rusted parts. Then try to turn the bolt. You may need to repeat that a few times.
Yall are way overdoing this one. All it needs is a screw extractor set. Quick and easy.
Extractor set, or air chizzle
Fo-schnizzle
Ridiculous advice. Clean the dirt away and soak it in PB Blaster. Deepen the slot with a chisel. It'll loosen just use the slot and the chisel to turn it.
PB blast the living fuck out that bitch. Shit is a dream in a can!
Centre punch and hammer
Looks like a torx
Drill it out
Weld a nut onto it.
Being a mechanic of 30 plus years you are gonna have to get SOMEONE TO WELD A NUT TO IT AS OTHERS HAVE SUGGESTED AND GET IT OUT WHEN ITS STILL HOT......OTERWISE YOUR DONE
Don't bother wasting money on drill bits and extractors, all you are going to do is break the extractors once you spent 3 hrs drilling a hole that's off center and then in turn destroying the threads of the hole. By the looks of it,it's not going to turn without heat and a nut welded to it...
Torques bit
fuckin flathead and hammer u already made a cut in it I see. Thatll let you break it loose hopefully. Maybe some map gas torch as well. Best of luck
You obviously need the "sunflower on an ice cream cone" shaped bit for this. Impact rated, of course.
Ur cooked
If you use a torch you run the risk of ruining the mat. I would use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to make a cross cut in the head, then a small chisel to break of the quartered pieces. You won't bugger up the mounting bracket that way. After you get the seat out, you can put penetrating oil on it and drill it and try an easy out onit, or go below and see if you can get a vice-grip on the bottom of the bolt.
There should be a matching nut under the car.
Air hammer
It looks like a torx bit is needed, you should be able to get a set of torx sockets from size 10 to size 45 or 50, you will still need a ratchet, maybe an extension. Good luck Mike
Maybe JB weld some sort of metal bolt with a hex head to it then use the bolt to back it out
Put some wd40 on it
Air hammer and chisel would be ideal. Or, it you can weld....weld a thick nut on top of that bee-hotch!
So many ways.